Some call it a new creative force but we of the oriental clan know the art of fashion has been an essential part of Chinese culture and history. The history of Chinese fashion was a versatile one. Totems, colours, forms and fabrics formed different work of art representing each dynasty. When it comes to contemporary Chinese fashion, the most memorable part might be cheongsam or classic pieces sporting traditional embroideries, ink or Maoist characters. Yet these Chinese designers are the missing link between our splendid heritage and modern time, which is well defined by the ‘First Row: Chinese-American Designers’ exhibition, curated by Mary Ping, ongoing at Museum of Chinese Americans (MOCA) in New York c- an important chronicle of Chinese designers who pursued their fashion careers overseas.
The first-rowers often expect distinctive oriental elements from these designers, but this retrospective has proved that their common Chinese root means more than history and archaism. Despite their Chinese roots, there is not a common ground among their aesthetics. Rather, their cultural versatility gives each of them a different kind of depth – a fusion of intelligence, cultural heritage, wonder and personality. Like Mary Ping said, the exhibition is not about their similarities; it is about their differences.
From Left to Right: David Chu (Nautica men’s day ensemble, 1990s: White cotton/nylon sailing anorak, yellow branded fleece, navy cotton corduroy pants, brown leather boat shoes), Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (Men’s day ensemble, Spring/Summer 2008: Lime and blue cotton hooded sweatshirt, ACT UP cotton T-shirt, striped cotton pants, orange Timberland collaboration sport shoes. Women’s day ensemble: Lemon cotton flare coat, spring/Summer 2006; yellow patent Robert Clergerie collaboration sandal platform, Spring/Summer 2011: square Guy de Jean collaboration umbrella, 2011) 
From Left to Right: Yeohlee Teng (Zero waste cape, Fall 2008: Olive nylon quilted cape, black microfiber bodysuit) Derek Lam (Leather day ensemble, Spring 2012: Caramel bonded leather dress with flax linen back, white honeycomb jacquard sleeveless sweather, caramel embossed leather, ‘Belize’ platform wedges) Yeohlee Teng (Circle ensemble, Fall 2012: Aubergine silk circle top, aubergine silk dress) 
Left to Right: Zang Toi, Vivienne Tam, Peter Som
From Left to Right: David Chu (Nautica men’s day ensemble, 1990s: White cotton/nylon sailing anorak, yellow branded fleece, navy cotton corduroy pants, brown leather boat shoes), Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (Men’s day ensemble, Spring/Summer 2008: Lime and blue cotton hooded sweatshirt, ACT UP cotton T-shirt, striped cotton pants, orange Timberland collaboration sport shoes. Women’s day ensemble: Lemon cotton flare coat, spring/Summer 2006; yellow patent Robert Clergerie collaboration sandal platform, Spring/Summer 2011: square Guy de Jean collaboration umbrella, 2011)
From Left to Right: Yeohlee Teng (Zero waste cape, Fall 2008: Olive nylon quilted cape, black microfiber bodysuit) Derek Lam (Leather day ensemble, Spring 2012: Caramel bonded leather dress with flax linen back, white honeycomb jacquard sleeveless sweather, caramel embossed leather, ‘Belize’ platform wedges) Yeohlee Teng (Circle ensemble, Fall 2012: Aubergine silk circle top, aubergine silk dress)
Left to Right: Zang Toi, Vivienne Tam, Peter Som
Also a New York-based Chinese designer, Mary Ping picked work from 16 Chinese American fashion designers who emerged in different times. There are established names like Vivienne Tam, Anna Sui, Derek Lam, Vera Wang; and there are also young novas like Zang Toi, Jason Wu and Philip Lim.
Yeohlee Teng, Zero Waste Cape, Fall 2008, photograph courtesy of Museum of Chinese in America 
Mary Ping, Marble print top and matching pants, Fall/Winter 2012, photograph courtesy of Museum of Chinese in America 
Melinda Eng, Black Silk Velvet Bustier Gown, Fall 1999, photograph courtesy of Museum of Chinese in America 
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, Guy de Jean Long Umbrella, Spring/Summer 2010, photograph courtesy of Museum of Chinese in America
Yeohlee Teng, Zero Waste Cape, Fall 2008, photograph courtesy of Museum of Chinese in America
Mary Ping, Marble print top and matching pants, Fall/Winter 2012, photograph courtesy of Museum of Chinese in America
Melinda Eng, Black Silk Velvet Bustier Gown, Fall 1999, photograph courtesy of Museum of Chinese in America
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, Guy de Jean Long Umbrella, Spring/Summer 2010, photograph courtesy of Museum of Chinese in America
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